Auschwitz-Birkenau as a Magnet

Walking into Auschwitz II (Birkenau), I watched crowds of people being maneuvered by guides through the grounds, walking from location to location trying to unravel some of the complexity of the Holocaust. This imagery made me uncomfortable and with reflection I realized why. Where there were tourists, I was seeing prisoners of the camp, being navigated through the complex as part of an endless shuffle of people. The difference between these two scenarios was the free movement of people in the case of my visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau. 

I feel that with this observation and my following statements, I must clarify the importance of bearing witness to suffering.  Learning about the Holocaust is a part of the obligation to bear witness. When we bear witness to atrocities and open ourselves up without preconceived notions, we gain powerful tools such as empathy, respect, and mindfulness. 

It’s difficult for me to understand the Holocaust as a business in light of my personal beliefs on bearing witness. At Auschwitz-Birkenau, there is the conscious creation of tourism around the extermination of human life and the continued exploitation of Jews. As Sarah Hodgkinson pointed out in her article “The Concentration Camp as a Site of ‘Dark Tourism’”, for some tourists part of the attraction is their “natural curiousity”, perhaps swindled in Krakow by tour operators promising a visit to “Old Town, the Salt Mines, and Auschwitz-Birkenau” as sites you just can’t miss. 

Part of this attraction I would attribute to the entertainment value and commercialization of dark tourism. Hodgkinson cites Tim Cole, noting that as a consequence of catering to public consumption, the site loses its sense of authenticity, referring to Auschwitz I as “Auschwitz-land”. This sentiment is created through the structured and reconstructed nature of the grounds, specifically of Auschwitz I. Presented as a stage with manicured lawns, clean bathrooms, and cafeterias, it’s difficult to to picture Auschwitz as being a concentration camp for 30,000 people. 

Auschwitz-Birkenau acts as a magnet that absorbs the Holocaust, mainly because of the state of its physical remains. As much of a moral dilemma that surrounds certain aspects of visiting sites of genocide, there are many visitors who are motivated by the pursuit of an earnest education and remembrance. As part of creating a collective memory, visits to sites like these are important for the awareness and authenticity of what remains and the memories of survivors. 

As part of bearing witness as Auschwitz-Birkenau, I have realized that “never again” is a cliché that fails. In respect to antisemetic attitudes, this is something that is still visible. It’s seen globally, more intimately in my own communities with the shootings at Tree of Life and Poway. In respect to genocide and all other violations of human rights, we continue to operate under the belief that it’s someone else’s responsibility somewhere else to take action while we remain bystanders, implicitly allowing these acts of hate, discrimination, and persecution to happen in our world. The responsibility of reparations for negative acts lays squarely on humanity, and on our shoulders as individuals. When we recognize the humanity in and of others, we foster understanding, inspire dignity and can promote advocacy.